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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:57 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:47 pm
Posts: 138
First name: David
Last Name: Ferraro
City: Franklin
State: Pennsylvania
Zip/Postal Code: 16323
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Used KTM-9 through a HVLP sprayer for first time. Used a 8oz can and came out to 9 coats, so I think I'm happy with the coat thickness, and didn't have too many drips. After the early drips flat, they disappeared nicely under later coats. Now that I'm done, I noticed a small drip. I'm thinking I can sand it out with 320, then sand up to 1200 prior to buffing. Does this sound reasonable, or must I break out the sprayer and add at least another coat after sanding? (I'll probably try just sanding and buffing.....can always re-sand and spray if it doesn't work)

Dave F


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:35 pm
Posts: 2951
Location: United States
First name: Joe
Last Name: Beaver
City: Lake Forest
State: California
Focus: Build
KTM9 is a good finish. The only real trouble you can have is using thick coats and not letting them dry well before you spray the next. If you do that you will probably have a blue cast/haze to it.

Assuming no problems there I would let it dry two days after you have finished spraying. Then level sand the whole thing with a rubber sanding block and 320 paper.

Just take it down to where you don't have any shinny spots after you wipe it off. You can level sand the run at this time also starting with 220 going to 320, making it disappear.

Be careful on the edges, you don't want any sand through. If you do just spray about 4 more coats and do the same thing again.

After 10-14 days you can start through the grits, from 400 to as 1200 or so. Sometimes i go up to around 8000. Then you can buff.

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: dnf777 (Sun Jan 04, 2015 7:33 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
I use a razor blade on runs, I put masking tape on each end of the blade then use it carefully as a scraper. The masking tape keeps the blade from going to low. Once the run is mostly flattened then I go to a flat, hard sanding block.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"



These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Rod True (Fri Jan 09, 2015 11:07 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:10 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:55 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Canada
First name: Greg
Last Name: Harrington
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
i try and find them when still wet and wipe them off with my finger or a foam brush

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 5:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
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First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
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SteveSmith wrote:
I use a razor blade on runs, I put masking tape on each end of the blade then use it carefully as a scraper. The masking tape keeps the blade from going to low. Once the run is mostly flattened then I go to a flat, hard sanding block.

I've use that tip quite often, works for me.
Same for drop fills (with CA in my case)

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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